Dispatches

There is a film of Andrew Cotton’s journey to Nazaré, in which the level of danger involved in big wave surfing hits home as a surfer is pulled from the water and given CPR on the beach. As the lifeguards battle to save the man, the ocean’s apocalyptic roar booms admonition to those gathered on the shoreline. We caught up with Devonian surfer Andrew Cotton to find out what drives big wave surfers to face down such monsters of nature.